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Going to Kenya

sid – July 31, 2008 – 10:20pm

Looks like I'm headed to Kenya! My girlfriend and I got jobs working for the One Acre Fund in Bungoma, Kenya. She is keeping a blog -- check it out.


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North Face of the Gothics

sid – March 10, 2007 – 6:55pm

Shane, Tom, Christian and I are headed up next weekend to attempt the N Face of the Gothics. It usually doesn't come into shape until February or March because it needs to build on a good base of snow, and then have a couple freeze/thaw cycles to get into good shape. The Dacks got dumped on last week, and unfortunately a team tried it a few days ago while the snow is still quite loose, and they rode an avalanche down! Luckily noone was seriously injured.

I did a web search and also looked in any of the guidebooks I have and put together a writeup (with quite a few pictures also found on the web) about the route. You can download the 20MB file here.


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Millvale ice

sid – February 16, 2007 – 7:47pm

From my man Brian W:

The ice flow on babcock blvd is in great shape. 30-40 feet high. Steep but not vertical.

From downtown pittsburgh: route 28 north a couple of miles, take the millvale exit and turn right onto evergreen rd. follow that road as it winds its way thru millvale and go straight thru 3 stoplights. you will go a couple of miles (evergreen rd becomes babcock blvd) and the diamond wire spring company will be on your left. park on the right directly across the street. it is a single line with small variations.

if the stream isn't thick enough to cross, there is a small bridge a hundred feet back down the road...


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Improving climbing performance

sid – November 25, 2006 – 3:26pm

(based on a handout from the ECP Rock School)

The best training for climbing is climbing.

Expand your "library" of climbing moves.

  • There are literally thousands of different climbing areas with over a million routes. Each route possesses slightly different character and form requiring you to execute somewhat different techniques and tactics in every case. Climbing movements may be similar, but the moves feel different due to variations in rock type, angle and frictional properties.
  • Goal = climb on as many different types of rock as possible to expand your “library”

Your body cannot go where the mind has not gone first

  • Motivation multiplies talent.
  • Set goals that compel action.
  • Discipline leads to excellence.
  • Crank up your confidence.
  • Visualize success.
  • Differentiate reasonable and unreasonable fears.
  • Turn down the pressure

General conditioning is the most effective type of fitness training for beginner climbers.


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Peru climbing timeline - 17 day trip

sid – November 21, 2006 – 10:50pm

When we originally started planning our trip to Peru, we were planning to only go for 17 days. This was our "everything goes extremely well" plan. I think it is very unrealistic, but wanted to post it for comments and also so we can continue to learn.

Day Activity Elevation Gain/Loss Notes "Formula"
1 Flight to Lima 0 ft      
2 Bus from Lima to Huaraz 9,500 ft 9,500 ft   8,000 ft
3 Rest day in Huaraz 9,500 ft 0 ft   9,000 ft
4 Bus/trek to Pisco base camp 15,100 ft 5,600 ft very aggressive in terms of altitude gain 10,000 ft
5 Pisco base camp 15,100 ft 0 ft probably need more days here or lower! 11,000 ft
6 Pisco moraine camp 16,075 ft 975 ft   12,000 ft
7 Summit Pisco 18,867 ft 2,792 ft   13,000 ft
  Return to Pisco base camp 15,100 ft -3,767 ft    
8 Go to Chopicalqui base camp 13,800 ft -1,300 ft   14,000 ft
9 Chopicalqui moraine camp 15,100 ft 1,300 ft   15,000 ft
10 Rest day 15,100 ft 0 ft   16,000 ft
11 Summit Chopicalqui 20,841 ft 5,741 ft whew - workout day! 17,000 ft
  Descend to base camp 13,800 ft -7,041 ft    
12 Return to Huaraz 9,500 ft -4,300 ft   18,000 ft
13 Drive/trek to Huascaran base camp 14,000 ft 4,500 ft   19,000 ft
14 Huascaran camp 1 17,000 ft 3,000 ft   20,000 ft
15 Summit Huascaran 22,200 ft 5,200 ft   21,000 ft
  Descend to base camp 14,000 ft -8,200 ft another huge day  
16 Return to Huaraz 9,500 ft -4,500 ft    
17 Bus from Huaraz to Lima, flight out 0 ft -9,500 ft    


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