Mountain Quickie

• Height: 20,840 feet (6,350 meters)
• Normal route: Southwest Ridge
• Grade: AD-
• Elevation gain: 1,550 meters from moraine camp
• Time: 1-2 days from moraine camp to summit and back
• Equipment: crampons, 2 axes, rope, pickets

Overview

The mammoth Chopicalqui is one of the Cordillera's most striking peaks. It offers a challenging ascent requiring intermediate level alpine skills, and an excellent opportunity for climbers who want to make an ascent to high altitude. Chopicalqui is the fourth highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca.

It is located immediately northeast of Peru's highest mountain, Huascaran. It offers superb views of the two Huascaran peaks, the Huandoy group, and Chacraraju, all of which are close at hand. The southwest ridge is a moderate snow climb, but deep snow or bad weather could spoil chances of success.

Mountain Quickie

• Height: 18,897 feet (5,760 meters)
• Normal route: Southwest Ridge
• Grade: AD- since 2004
• Elevation gain: 1,150 meters from base camp; 850 meters from moraine camp
• Time: 3-5 hours from moraine camp
• Equipment: crampons, axe (with at least 1 person in the party with 2), 50m ropes, pickets

Overview

The name Pisco is possibly derived from the great amounts of pisco (a Peruvian liquor) consumed to celebrate the first ascent. It is a strong foul drink, but well worth a try. Nowadays Pisco is a very popular peak for climbers to acclimatize for a 6000er as well as for guided trekking groups at the end of their tour. The normal route typically takes 3 days roundtrip from Huaraz to the summit. The mountain is set right in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, so the views are great, and the mountain itself has a nice pyramid shape.