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Chopicalqui

sid – November 25, 2006 – 2:49pm

 

Mountain Quickie

  • Height: 20,840 feet (6,350 meters)
  • Normal route: Southwest Ridge
  • Grade: AD-
  • Elevation gain: 1,550 meters from moraine camp
  • Time: 1-2 days from moraine camp to summit and back
  • Equipment: crampons, 2 axes, rope, pickets

Overview

The mammoth Chopicalqui is one of the Cordillera's most striking peaks. It offers a challenging ascent requiring intermediate level alpine skills, and an excellent opportunity for climbers who want to make an ascent to high altitude. Chopicalqui is the fourth highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca.

It is located immediately northeast of Peru's highest mountain, Huascaran. It offers superb views of the two Huascaran peaks, the Huandoy group, and Chacraraju, all of which are close at hand. The southwest ridge is a moderate snow climb, but deep snow or bad weather could spoil chances of success.


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Pisco

sid – November 21, 2006 – 11:00pm

 

Mountain Quickie

  • Height: 18,897 feet (5,760 meters)
  • Normal route: Southwest Ridge
  • Grade: AD- since 2004
  • Elevation gain: 1,150 meters from base camp; 850 meters from moraine camp
  • Time: 3-5 hours from moraine camp
  • Equipment: crampons, axe (with at least 1 person in the party with 2), 50m ropes, pickets

Overview

The name Pisco is possibly derived from the great amounts of pisco (a Peruvian liquor) consumed to celebrate the first ascent. It is a strong foul drink, but well worth a try. Nowadays Pisco is a very popular peak for climbers to acclimatize for a 6000er as well as for guided trekking groups at the end of their tour. The normal route typically takes 3 days roundtrip from Huaraz to the summit. The mountain is set right in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, so the views are great, and the mountain itself has a nice pyramid shape.


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Peru climbing timeline - 17 day trip

sid – November 21, 2006 – 10:50pm

When we originally started planning our trip to Peru, we were planning to only go for 17 days. This was our "everything goes extremely well" plan. I think it is very unrealistic, but wanted to post it for comments and also so we can continue to learn.

Day Activity Elevation Gain/Loss Notes "Formula"
1 Flight to Lima 0 ft      
2 Bus from Lima to Huaraz 9,500 ft 9,500 ft   8,000 ft
3 Rest day in Huaraz 9,500 ft 0 ft   9,000 ft
4 Bus/trek to Pisco base camp 15,100 ft 5,600 ft very aggressive in terms of altitude gain 10,000 ft
5 Pisco base camp 15,100 ft 0 ft probably need more days here or lower! 11,000 ft
6 Pisco moraine camp 16,075 ft 975 ft   12,000 ft
7 Summit Pisco 18,867 ft 2,792 ft   13,000 ft
  Return to Pisco base camp 15,100 ft -3,767 ft    
8 Go to Chopicalqui base camp 13,800 ft -1,300 ft   14,000 ft
9 Chopicalqui moraine camp 15,100 ft 1,300 ft   15,000 ft
10 Rest day 15,100 ft 0 ft   16,000 ft
11 Summit Chopicalqui 20,841 ft 5,741 ft whew - workout day! 17,000 ft
  Descend to base camp 13,800 ft -7,041 ft    
12 Return to Huaraz 9,500 ft -4,300 ft   18,000 ft
13 Drive/trek to Huascaran base camp 14,000 ft 4,500 ft   19,000 ft
14 Huascaran camp 1 17,000 ft 3,000 ft   20,000 ft
15 Summit Huascaran 22,200 ft 5,200 ft   21,000 ft
  Descend to base camp 14,000 ft -8,200 ft another huge day  
16 Return to Huaraz 9,500 ft -4,500 ft    
17 Bus from Huaraz to Lima, flight out 0 ft -9,500 ft    


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Huaraz, Peru

sid – November 21, 2006 – 10:45pm

Overview

The city of Huaraz is located in the Santa Rio Valley, and is surrounded by the Cordilleras Blanca, Negra and Huayhuash. Because of its location, this area has become the stomping grounds for hikers, backpackers and mountaineers from all over the world.

Huaraz, like most Peruvian towns, surrounds a central plaza, the Plaza de Armas. Avenida Luzuriaga, the main throughfare of the city, runs along the western side of the Plaza. Here you'll find tour companies, restaurants, shops, street vendors and hostels. The town spreads east and west away from Av. Luzuriaga.

To help protect and conserve the region's spectacular mountain landscape and culture, the Parque Nacional Huarscaran was established in 1975. It encompasses all of the Cordillera Blanca above 4000 meters -- some 3400 square kilometers. The current S/.65 ($18.50) multiple day park fee, while affordable to the international tourist, is well beyond the reach of the average Peruvian. If you hike in the park you will see few if any locals, especially deep in the range.


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Peru general information

sid – November 21, 2006 – 10:42pm

Overview

Peru is located on the west coast of South America just south of the Equator. Peru is a developing nation, and a wide range of tourist facilities and services are available.

Getting There

Flights

We planned originally to fly to Lima, and then bus it to Huaraz and use that as our base.

Most tickets were $1000+ from Pittsburgh. Flying out of Philly midweek is significantly cheaper, and 2+ stops on the flight (yea, yea, pain in the ass) is cheaper still.

Currently there is no regular air service or passenger trains that service the Huaraz area.

Buses

Lima to Huaraz typically takes 7 to 8 hours on a bus.

Most South American buses are clean, and efficient. The most reliable bus companies, run full charter buses with reclining chairs (bus camas), video monitors and come with undercarriage luggage space. Some buses serve on-route snacks and have a restroom in the back. It is always advisable to check and see that the bus you are taking is direct. Those that are not direct, which are usually the cheaper bus companies, often stop and pick up passengers along the road. Bus robberies are not unheard of, and there have been cases of groups of people entering full buses and robbing everyone on board. Avoid this experience by paying a little more and taking direct buses.


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